Why a New York restaurant ditching its vegan menu marks the return of the carnivore

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After a dalliance with veganism, Eleven Madison Park’s sudden shift back to meat marks a major turning point

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A plant-based dish from Eleven Madison Park
A plant-based dish at Eleven Madison Park, where the chef recently announced a return to meat and seafood on the menu Credit: Getty

If you thought the rise of plant-based dining would usher in a meatless era; that the future of protein was in the laboratory not the farm, think again...