Jeremy Allen White in The Bear(X Networks/IMDb)

The Bear is a drama on FX about a top-tier chef coming home to his grief-stricken family to take over and ultimately transform the beef sandwich shop his deceased brother left behind.

I had mixed feelings about this show through its run. The start was phenomenal. Then the show built up toward several bravura set-piece-style episodes. One was a rush of orders online. Another was a dysfunctional Christmas family dinner. Like a lot of viewers, I appreciated earlier ones and began to check out later.

There were problems with the series at a structural level. 1) The series seems to begin as ...

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