Charlottesville, Va., at sunset(Photo courtesy of the author)

My new state makes a good first impression. From the southern border shared with North Carolina up through the center, it's exactly as you would imagine: huge yet humble farm homes standing alone on perfect green fields. Little mailboxes and big American flags hung from actual flagpoles. Counties named after old English places and royals — Charlotte (for the queen), Prince Edward, Buckingham.

This is the sort of country that Thomas Jefferson hoped would blanket the continent. As I have covered in my trip, things got a bit more diverse than he expected. No matter. The agrarian ideal lives on in ...

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