The author on a rooftop in East Nashville(Photo courtesy of the author)

Talk about an old city turned young. Nashville was founded on Christmas Eve in 1779, located in the western frontier of the North Carolina territory before it came under federal control. The city is lined with columned Greek architecture — from its replica of the Pantheon to Belmont University — to signify the antebellum South's purportedly ancient and virtuous way of life. Nashville's "Music City" moniker traces to 1925, when the Grand Ole Opry radio broadcast debuted. This was the recording home of legends: Johnny Cash, Patsy Cline, Willie Nelson, Dolly Parton, and, for a time, even Elvis Presley and ...

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