Homes on Rainbow Row in downtown Charleston, S.C.(Photo courtesy of the author)

The Palmetto State is not naturally hospitable in July. Its drenching goulash of heat and humidity makes you feel like you're walking through a pool room whenever you step outside. Charleston, especially — seated in the marshy Lowcountry — must do something to distract folks from drowning in air. It meets the challenge with charm.

At first glance, Charleston's historic downtown looks a lot like Savannah's. Most of the building exteriors are original, with some homes dating back more than three centuries. Founded as a strategic trading hub for the British in 1670, Charleston soon sprawled behind its harbor defenses into ...

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